Inside One Baker’s Mission To Transform Canada’s Loaves

Dara Gallinger paces the big open kitchen at her bakery in Toronto that doubles as an urban mill, grinding all the grain for its bread. She grabs a handful of fresh-milled flour — a favourite demonstration of hers — and squeezes it in her fist. It clumps together like soil.

“That’s like clay,” she said, poking at the ball of flour in her palm. “That’s because it’s alive.”

Gallinger, a former marketer for Sobeys Inc., and the handful of people in her orbit — a billionaire toymaker, a Swedish baker and a rookie miller — all like to talk about flour in the same stark manner: It is living or it is dead.

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