The night before we’re set to meet, Amarjit Singh leaves a message on my phone. He sounds tired and stressed out. It turns out the 62-year-old cheesemaker—who has built a reputation over the past 26 years for his exceptional Indian and Latin American cheeses—was forced to make a last-minute delivery to a grocery store in the nation’s capital. When I see him the next morning at his factory in Ingersoll, in southwestern Ontario (a 1,200-kilometer round-trip from Ottawa), I learn he’s only been back in town for a few hours.
Singh is a busy man. For Local Dairy, the company he has owned and operated with his wife and son for nearly three decades, he is the research and development team, as well as responsible for sourcing ingredients and helping with label design for his dairy products. A self-taught cheesemaker, he still works the line at the factory throughout the week and even hand-delivers the goods to restaurants, grocery stores, and specialty shops on weekends. “We do everything old school. But passion keeps me going,” he says.
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