Cheese’s Twilight Rattles France’s Sense Of Self

LA SAVINAZ, France The milk that Paulette Marmottan uses in her cheese comes
fresh from her cows and goats, so warm that on cold mornings, a cloud of steam
goes up as she pours it into a cauldron.

It’s the first step in making Persille de Tignes, which according to local lore,
was a favourite of the mighty 9th century emperor Charlemagne.

But the Marmottans are the last family making it, and while most French people
may be content with the mass-produced cheeses of their globalizing world, the
disappearance of traditional varieties is seen by some as threatening the very
essence of Frenchness.

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The Associated Press