It’s bewildering these days in the cold cases of specialty stores, delicatessens and even some supermarkets, with the array of exotic-sounding meats such as lomo, capicola, speck and soppressata.
Then there are salumi (Italian) and charcuterie (French), the cured, preserved meats that have taken on a new cachet as their product lines sausages, hams, confits, even duck salami crowd butcher shops and restaurant menus.
Given that, we wondered: Whatever happened to good ol’ bologna (or “baloney,” the spelling most regular folks seem to prefer), that most straightforward of lunchmeats? It’s still around and in more varieties than ever.
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