On a sunny day in early March, Marin French cheesemaker Alex Borgo and his staff are tasting through batches of soft-ripened cheese that will be sent to the U.S. Cheese Championships in Wisconsin.
“Cheese-making smells good, with the warm milk and the tangy cultures,” said Borgo, who was born into a cheese-making family from Europe and Canada. “Sometimes I eat too much cheese.”
For the past eight years, Borgo has helped guide the 150-year-old company into the future, carefully navigating between the twin guideposts of tradition and innovation.
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