Parmigiano Cheese Makers Looking For Ways to Halt Non-Italian Rivals

ROME — Growth in the popularity of counterfeit versions of Italy’s most popular cheese is starting to grate on Italian cheese makers. It’s just not clear what can or should be done about it.

Parmigiano Reggiano — the hard, nutty, aged cheese produced in and near Emilia-Romagna, Italy’s best-known food region — is probably Italy’s most famous cheese. It is shredded and spread over pasta and served in small chunks during parties and on cheese plates.

It is also attracting copycat cheeses made in places out of Italy, produced by cheese makers capitalizing on the mystique of the cheese Italians colloquially refer to simply as “Parmigiano.”

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