Fire up that backyard grill, because the dwindling art of butchery is suddenly smoking hot. Rising from the ashes of a trade that has languished for decades under supermarket shrink-wrap, a new breed of independent, ethical and enigmatically glamorous butcher is putting the meat back in mongering.
Either tattooed and hip or preternaturally earnest, these young bucks deliver old-fashioned service with a modern emphasis on sustainability. They work directly with small farms, know exactly how the animals have been treated and preen over their handcrafted deli selections.
But can their bespoke meat compete with the diversity of Cioffi’s or the sawdust-swept ambience of Beefway? To ferret out the professionals, we questioned the new contenders on the essentials of good butchery from The River Cottage Meat Book and assembled a panel of discerning meat lovers to taste-test their finest cuts.
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