The Bacon Backlash

It's 8 o'clock on Saturday night and you're waiting for your table at the place to be. You sip a bacon-infused bourbon old fashioned, while nibbling on pancetta-wrapped figs. Once seated, you waver between the braised pork belly or the Allan Benton-bacon wrapped trout, served with Brussels spouts roasted with cured fatback. You'll need to save room for the bacon-banana ice cream. And, don't forget, you'll be meeting a friend for bacon-maple doughnuts tomorrow morning.

It's lip smacking and finger licking, fatty and salty, savory and sweet. It's bacon, and it's everywhere. In every restaurant. In every course. In every dish.

We are in the midst of a bacon bubble—and a growing number of chefs (some of whom quietly admit they helped inflate the bubble to begin with) say it's about to pop. Bacon had a good run, but now it has gone flabby—used too much and too often, it's lost its novelty and coated fine dining with a ubiquitous veneer of porky grease.

To read the rest of the story, please go to: The Wall Street Journal.