Underground Chicago Restaurants Come Out Of Hiding

Two couples strolled down a white stone sidewalk in Logan Square, each gripping a bottle of wine by the neck. They were smartly dressed, professional types, and though the couples didn't know each other, they recognized quickly that they were headed toward the same spot — the same secret spot.

The day before, they had received an e-mail that provided a time and a place. They were headed to an apartment for dinner; they had paid for the meal weeks before, $55 a head. It was a residential parking zone, and so they left their cars a street or two away and headed toward a modest, two-story house in the middle of the block. The last minutes of the setting sun cast a soft light on the blossoming branches that hung over the street. Birds chirped. Two girls played catch, and their softball made a lazy arc, then smacked against a crack in the sidewalk and veered toward the feet of one of the men. He stepped around the darting ball, widening his eyes and lifting a leg, holding his bottle above his head, a bad imitation of a tightrope walker keeping balance.

That's as edgy, daring, or strange as Sunday Dinner got.

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Photo by Scott Strazzante, Chicago Tribune