Parking spots were scarce on the streets south of downtown Tulum. Beating a shiny sports car to a makeshift opening, I raced to park my Chevy rental and made it to the line outside El Camello right before a group of hip-looking guys.
Before long, I was sipping a chilled limonada and munching fresh, hot chips. I watched as men in aprons raced from the adjacent seafood market where fishermen brought their daily catch. Whole fish went into the kitchen and quickly came out butterflied and grilled. It doesn't get much fresher, cheaper or more enjoyable than this.
The waitress arrived with a plate brimming with rice, salad and more pulpo con guajillo (chopped octopus cooked with strips of guajillo chilies and onion) than I could ever devour. I tried, mind you, and returned the next day for the most awesome ceviche I've tasted in years. Shrimp and octopus nearly tumbled over the "medium" size plate. Both my lunches cost less than $9, and both days I had enough left over for dinner. Once again, my craving for simple Mexican seafood was satisfied.
Two oceans and two seas flow beside several states in Mexico, providing the ingredients for dozens of regional seafood specialties. Several, like ceviche, appear in different forms all along the coast, while others are standard on menus everywhere. Talented chefs at coastal resorts expand on home-style recipes, creating delicate lobster tacos and shrimp with mole. If you love seafood you've got to try the following standards, preferably in their place of origin.