Although Tiller Baking Co. supplies an impressive and growing list of restaurants in Charleston, including Fig, McCrady’s, Edmund’s Oast, Wild Olive, and Babas on Cannon, the artisan bread maker keeps a relatively low profile. “We are not very outward facing,” says owner Joe Shea, who purchased Root Baking Co.’s former space from Chris and Nicole Wilkins when they decided to move their business to Atlanta in 2018. Indeed, emailing with the baker to set up an interview, he might even be described as reticent. Greeted by his bright-eyed and cordial children and wife upon arriving at their kitchen on Savannah Highway, the reason for his reserve starts to become a little clearer. It is obvious Tiller Baking Co. isn’t just a business or brand, it is a family affair.
“I get to work with men that I consider my brothers. I get to support them with the work that we are all doing, and we each, in turn, get to serve one another. That is something unique,” says Shea, describing the community he’s built with Tiller. Later, another baker will come and begin baking off loaves. He, too, says Shea, will be joined by his wife. “We’re very much about family here. It is why we are all doing what we are doing.”
Like other notable bakers who Shea counts as inspiration — Jim Lahey who thought he was going to be a sculptor, Steve Sullivan who started baking bread in his college dorm inspired by his travels, and Peter Reinhart who, before becoming a celebrated baker, obtained an MFA from Queens University of Charlotte — Shea’s passion for baking was first stoked during his liberal arts studies.
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