It goes without saying that most bread in this town is a massive let down. The most disappointing loaves can be found at grocery stores where blonde baguettes with a soft, almost waxy crust fill the bread baskets next to the even more terrible loaves branded simply as French or Italian.
A baguette should be crusty, with a thin, dark skin that shatters into an infinite scattering of well-toasted shards when you tear off a hunk. It should be chewy. If you're half way through a considerable length of baguette and you don't feel a dull ache in your jaw or perhaps your temples, you should be looking for another source for your bread.
Village Baking Co., which took over the Whole Foods Baking location on University Boulevard, bakes this sort of bread. The impossibly hot baking floor is flanked on both sides by deck ovens turning out baguettes, and revolving convection ovens turning out rolls for restaurants all over Dallas.
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