Developed centuries ago in Rome and still found in most supermarket bread aisles, focaccia is not rare. What is rare, however, is freshly made focaccia that has a thin crisp crust while maintaining a soft airy interior. The kind that can be eaten all on its own, and perhaps in one sitting.
Why is this type of focaccia elusive? Maybe because of that one thing which has ignited many L.A. vs. NY pizza crust debates: the water content. For example, Rose Levy Beranbaum included several different focciacia recipes in her comprehensive Bread Bible with that reach up to 113.5%. These doughs require skillful handling because they have a constancy almost like a cake batter, or as Levy Beranbaum once described in her blog, "like melted mozarella cheese." To start our search, we headed to the place that supplies the bread to some of the best Italian bread baskets in the city, Celestino Drago's commercial bakery, Dolce Forno.
It took a little bit of time and a few trips around the block to find Dolce Forno Bakery because it is so hidden. (HINT: It's behind the Honda dealership) Nevertheless, they do welcome orders from the public. Putting in an order for a half sheet of focaccia in the afternoon means picking it up the following morning. When slicing up their focaccia, it appears to have substantial crumb, but the texture is actually bouncy and light. Topped with fresh tomatoes and generous sprinkling of rosemary adds enough flavor to make the bread quite snackable. However with its springy texture and toppings, it works best when sliced crosswise and used as a sandwich, as the flavors on top mingle with whatever is stuffed in the middle.
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