American Cheese: Forget The Yellow Squares

Clark Wolf gets excited when he starts talking about cheese — American cheese.

The restaurant and food consultant, who is also an author and occasional magazine contributor, is passionate about the wealth of American cheeses he now has at his disposal when he hosts classes in San Antonio, Texas.

That was not the case in 1976, when Wolf ran a small cheese shop in San Francisco or in 1980 when he helped open Oakville Grocery, also in San Francisco.

"There was nothing to sell, American," he says. "There were all kinds of imitation cheeses; there was dry jack and there was Oregon blue.

"Now, we can actually do a whole class in Cheese 101, really learning all about cheese, using American-made cheeses."

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