David Smith is Massachusetts’ guru of gouda. At his Otter River Farm in Winchendon, a picturesque central Massachusetts town 75 minutes from Boston, Smith makes several award-winning varieties of the famed Dutch cheese, plus cheddar and havarti, using milk from his own cows.
The 67-year-old Smith purchased the farm 42 years ago. Twenty-six years ago, he decided to focus the business on cheese.
“Consumption of fluid milk was declining, cheese was increasing,” Smith said of his choice. “(Dairy farming) is a very, very difficult business to be in. There are more controls on milk than any other commodity, other than alcohol. The government controls the price that we get, so you need to be innovative if you’re going to survive.”
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