Torregio Holds Crumbly Lemony Core

In the not-so-distant past, I winced when a good cheese cost more than $20 a pound. Now I marvel when it doesn't.

Heading my great-value list these days is Torregio, a cow's milk cheese from the Northern Italian region of Lombardy. At $16.99 a pound, it compares favorably with many cheeses at twice that price.

How does Arrigoni, the producer, do that – and with organic milk, no less?

Perhaps the economics work for Arrigoni because the company, while a family enterprise, is not small. Known primarily for Gorgonzola and Taleggio, the creamery also makes other traditional cheeses of the region, such as Quartirolo, and the fabulous Salva Cremasco.

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