Breeders have come up with stone fruit varieties that ripen in the San Joaquin Valley from late April to October, but the peak for both quality and quantity is right now, in late July and early August. There are so many flavorful varieties, both traditional and exotic, that it's hard not to go wild and over-buy at a good farmers market. There won't be much late-season stone fruit from the high desert this year, because of a spring freeze, so now is the time to enjoy.
Elegant Lady, a widely grown yellow peach that originated in 1979, has been particularly fine this year. It has velvety, red-blushed skin, deep yellow-orange flesh and rich flavor, with a classic balance of sweetness and acidity. In seasons when they are brutalized on the tree by weeks of triple-digit heat, they tend to dry out and become mealy, but the weather this year has been just right for them.
Regier Family Farms of Dinuba has them at Pasadena (on Saturdays), Hollywood and Santa Monica (on Wednesdays). A neighbor, John Hurley of Summer Harvest, brings organic Elegant Ladys to Venice, Santa Monica (Virginia Park and downtown on Saturdays), Playa Vista, Mar Vista and Beverly Hills.
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