Boston Sees Boost In Gourmet Hot Dogs

If it's possible to read the national mood in a single dish, right now that dish is the hot dog. An American classic, the frank is a simple pleasure: a stick of fatty, juicy meat free of pesky bones; a light, fluffy bun; as uncomplicated as a summer afternoon. Which is the perfect time to eat one, at a cookout, on a back lawn where adorable children gambol, at an amusement park. That summer feeling, that simple feeling, is more appealing than ever. Our economy is attempting to recover, and we along with it. Brighter times are ahead.

If belts are still tight, we don’t want to forgo luxury or excess. These are also American classics. The hot dog is an inexpensive vehicle for our desires. We can top it with whatever we want. We can riff on it whimsically, load it up ironically with rich extras, turn it into a cross-cultural experience.

And so the simple hot dog has taken on new life. Restaurants and hot dog stands around town are serving Kobe beef versions, hot dogs wrapped in bacon for double decadence, hot dogs with their own cute names: the Stairway to Heaven, the Marie Antoinette.

They’re offering them combined with the spicy, complex, and increasingly popular flavors of Korea and Vietnam, as well as the standard chili, corn batter, and relish.

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