Mussel culture is a funny thing.
The little mollusks will cling to buoys and branches, jetties and ropes, rafts, rods, even the hulls of ships, which is how the ubiquitous blue mussel has spread its seed for centuries. They flourish in saltwater and fresh. No matter the hitching post, as any waterman worth his salt will point out, mussels are known to cluster.
You could make the same claim about mussel acculturation on the Washington dining scene. From the Palisades to Southeast, the H Street to K Street corridors and beyond, restaurants hawking hot pots of the blue-black bivalve have proliferated. "It does seem to be all the rage these days, doesn't it?" observes Granville Moore's chef Teddy Folkman, who once beat Food Network star Bobby Flay in a mussel cook-off.
And why not?
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