The Kroger in the Edgewood Retail District is the jewel in the supermarket chain's intown crown. If not the crown jewel, it's at least the only one in a couple-mile radius that hasn't earned a disparaging-if-accurate nickname, such as "Murder Kroger" on Ponce de Leon Avenue or "Ghetto Kroger" further down Moreland Avenue. (The worst I've heard this one called colloquially is "Hipster Kroger," which seems more insulting to hipsters than Kroger.) Less, well, dingy than the chain's other nearby stores, the Edgewood Kroger also features a sushi bar — if you don't get diarrhea at the mere thought of grocery store sushi, which I do — a soup bar, a salad bar and, the piece de resistance, the recently opened Bistro at Kroger (1225 Caroline St., 404-880-4105).
A cafeteria-style slop line replete with balcony seating that offers spectacular views of the aisles and checkout counters below, the Bistro is like Kroger's less-expensive answer to Whole Foods' hot bars. No scales, thankfully — a main dish, two sides and bread of choice is a flat $6.99. There's only one person ahead of me in line at around 1:30 on a recent weekday afternoon, an adorable old lady whose age has diminished her voice to whisper tones. "Do you have the salmon," she croaks at the hairnet-clad woman behind the buffet.
"Samples?" the woman replies gruffly, misunderstanding the little wrinkled creature. "We don't really do samples, but I can give you a couple of things."
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