Fate of 90-Year-Old Virginia Ham Smokehouse Hangs in Balance

On a warm day in December, Sam Wallace Edwards III stood in a grassy plot near the ham shop in Surry that bears his name, his father’s name, and his father’s father’s name.

“This was where we built in the 1940s,” said Edwards, a burly 62-year-old about as solidly constructed as the hams he sells. “Over here is the ’80s, and this is the ’90s, and 2000s out this way.”

But he was pointing to an empty field. Only a faint change in the color of the grass marked the former foundation of the iconic Edwards Virginia Smokehouse.

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