Camembert Causes Stink in French Parliament in Row Over Quality Rules

PARIS – A row over changes to a quality label for camembert cheese reached the French parliament on Wednesday as supporters of a traditional raw-milk recipe distributed samples of the creamy, odorous speciality to lawmakers.

The cheese, which takes its name from a village in Normandy and dates back to the 18th century, is caught in a tussle between lovers of age-old cheesemaking methods based on raw milk and supporters of modern dairy practices like pasteurization.

Producers agreed a compromise last year revising terms used for the “Camembert de Normandie” protected origin scheme starting in 2021.

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